Will Your Heat Make It Through the Rest of Winter? A Mid-Season Reality Check for Philly Area Homeowners

We’re Halfway There… But Winter Isn’t Done With Us Yet

Look, if you’re reading this in mid-January, you already know. We’ve made it through the holidays, through those brutal cold snaps that hit right after New Year’s, and through at least a couple of those mornings where your breath fogs up inside your own house before the heat kicks in. But here’s the thing nobody wants to hear: we’ve still got two solid months of winter left, and February in the Philadelphia area? February doesn’t play.

Whether you’re in a Fishtown row home trying to keep your ductless mini splits running, out in Bensalem with a traditional system, or in one of those beautiful old Chestnut Hill houses with a boiler that’s older than your parents, right now is the moment to make sure your heating system can actually finish what it started

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Because the absolute worst time to find out your heat is giving up is at 2 a.m. on a Tuesday when it’s 18 degrees outside and every HVAC company in the tristate area has a three-day wait list.

This isn’t about being paranoid. This is about being smart. Your heating system has been working overtime since November, and just like your car needs a check after a long road trip, your furnace, heat pump, or boiler needs attention before it decides it’s done for the season. The good news? Most heating failures give you warning signs, and there are real things you can check yourself right now that’ll tell you whether you’re good to go or whether it’s time to make that call before you’re forced to make that call.

Five Things to Check Right Now, Based on What’s Actually Heating Your Home

The Real Cost of Boiler Maintenance (And Why Waiting Makes It More Expensive)

Let’s talk straight about boiler maintenance costs because there’s a huge difference between what regular maintenance costs and what neglected maintenance ends up costing. A standard boiler maintenance visit in the Philadelphia area starts around $120 for a straightforward hot water boiler that’s been kept up reasonably well. That’s not expensive when you consider what you’re getting: a full inspection, cleaning, safety checks, and peace of mind that your heat will work when you need it.

But here’s where it gets complicated, and this is what a lot of homeowners don’t understand until they’re facing a much bigger bill.

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Not all boilers are the same, and not all maintenance visits are the same. If you’ve got a steam boiler instead of a hot water boiler, that’s a different animal entirely with different components and different maintenance requirements. Steam systems are more complex, have more things that can go wrong, and take longer to service properly.

Then there’s the sediment issue. If your boiler hasn’t been maintained regularly, sediment and mineral deposits build up inside the heat exchanger and throughout the system. That sediment doesn’t just sit there harmlessly. It insulates the heat exchanger (making your boiler work harder and waste energy), it creates hot spots that can crack the exchanger, it clogs pipes and valves, and it causes that kettling noise that signals real damage is happening. Flushing out years of sediment buildup isn’t a quick job. It’s not a $120 job. It’s a several-hour process that might require special cleaning solutions, multiple flushes, and in severe cases, removing and cleaning components that can’t be flushed effectively while installed.

Some older Philadelphia homes, especially in neighborhoods like Chestnut Hill and Mt. Airy, have copper boilers or systems with components that require special kits or parts that aren’t standard anymore. Working on these systems takes more time, requires specialized knowledge, and the parts themselves cost more. A maintenance visit on a system like this isn’t going to be $120 because the work involved isn’t standard.

Here’s the pattern that happens over and over: someone pays $120 for basic maintenance when their boiler is relatively new or has been maintained regularly. Everything gets checked, cleaned lightly, tested, and they’re good for another year. Then they skip a year. Then another. Then five years go by. Now that same boiler needs sediment flushing, needs components that have corroded or seized up to be replaced, needs extensive cleaning, and might need that special kit to bring it back to proper operating condition. That maintenance visit isn’t $120 anymore. It might be $300, $500, or more depending on what’s been neglected.

The frustrating part is that all of that extra cost could have been prevented. If that homeowner had kept up with annual $120 maintenance visits, the sediment never would have built up to the point it needed aggressive flushing. The components wouldn’t have corroded from sitting in acidic, sediment-filled water. The system would have stayed efficient instead of working harder every year and racking up higher heating bills. But because they saved $120 a year for five years ($600 total), they’re now facing a $500 maintenance bill just to get back to baseline, plus all the wasted energy costs from running a dirty, inefficient system.

We work on a lot of boilers. Residential systems, commercial systems, church boilers that heat enormous old buildings with steam systems that have been running since the 1920s. The pattern is always the same: maintained systems cost less to maintain and last decades. Neglected systems cost progressively more to service, break down at the worst times, and fail years before they should. A boiler that could last 25-30 years with proper care might only make it 15 years if it’s neglected, and those last few years will be expensive and unreliable.

So when we say maintenance starts around $120, that’s real for a system that’s been maintained. If you’re calling for the first time in years, or if you’ve been hearing that kettling sound and ignoring it, or if you know your boiler hasn’t been flushed in forever, be prepared for an honest conversation about what your system actually needs. We’re not going to tell you everything’s fine when sediment is destroying your heat exchanger. We’re not going to do a surface cleaning and leave problems that’ll become your emergency next month. Real maintenance means actually maintaining the system, and if yours hasn’t been maintained in a long time, getting it back to a maintainable state costs more than keeping it maintained would have.

Red Alert Signs That Mean Call Right Now, Don’t Wait

The outdoor unit has stopped running entirely but the indoor unit is blowing air. If your wall unit is running but only blowing room-temperature or cold air and the outdoor compressor isn’t coming on at all, your system has either gone into a protection mode because something’s wrong or a component has failed. Ductless systems are designed to shut down before they damage themselves, so if yours has stopped heating, continuing to run it won’t help and might make repairs more expensive.

You’re seeing ice buildup that never goes away. A little frost is okay. Ice that persists through multiple cycles, completely encases the outdoor unit, or builds up on the refrigerant lines means your defrost cycle isn’t working or you have a refrigerant leak. Running a ductless system in this condition can burn out the compressor, which is the most expensive part of the system to replace.

Water is dripping or pooling inside your home from the indoor unit. Ductless systems produce condensation that should drain outside. If water is leaking from your indoor unit onto your wall or floor, you have a blocked drain line, a disconnected drain, or a frozen drain. This can cause water damage to your walls and ceilings, and it means your system isn’t operating correctly.

It’s running constantly and never shutting off, but your house isn’t getting warm. Heat pumps do run longer cycles than furnaces, but if yours has been running nonstop for hours and your house temperature is actually dropping, something’s seriously wrong. You might have a refrigerant leak, a failed compressor, or a control board issue. Running it continuously in this state wastes massive amounts of electricity and won’t heat your home.

You hear loud banging, grinding, or metal-on-metal sounds from either the indoor or outdoor unit. These sounds indicate mechanical failure, loose parts, or something coming apart inside the system. Grinding usually means a motor bearing is shot. Banging can mean a loose fan blade or a failing compressor. Don’t wait to see if it gets better. It won’t. It’ll get worse and the damage will get more expensive.

The outdoor unit is completely frozen solid and won’t defrost. If your heat pump looks like an ice sculpture and shows no signs of melting, the defrost control has failed. Running it in this condition puts enormous strain on the compressor and can cause complete system failure. Some people think they can chip the ice off or pour hot water on it (don’t do either), but the real problem is internal and needs professional repair.

You smell gas anywhere near the furnace. Natural gas and propane both have a distinctive rotten egg smell (added deliberately for safety). If you smell it, don’t try to light the pilot, don’t flip switches, don’t try to figure it out. Leave your house, call the gas company from outside, and let them handle it. Gas leaks can cause explosions. This isn’t paranoia; it’s physics.

The furnace keeps shutting itself off after running briefly. Modern furnaces have multiple safety switches that shut the system down if something’s wrong. If yours fires up, runs for a minute or two, then shuts off, then tries again in a cycle that keeps repeating, a safety mechanism is triggering. Common causes include overheating (from a dirty filter), a cracked heat exchanger, or a failing limit switch. None of these are safe to ignore.

You see soot, rust, or corrosion around the furnace or on the vent pipe. Soot means incomplete combustion and possible carbon monoxide production. Rust on the heat exchanger or vent pipe can indicate cracks or holes that are letting combustion gases escape into your home instead of venting outside. Carbon monoxide is invisible, odorless, and deadly. If you’re seeing physical evidence of combustion problems, get your furnace inspected immediately and consider getting a carbon monoxide detector if you don’t already have one.

Your pressure gauge is in the red zone or you’re seeing water shooting from the pressure relief valve. The pressure relief valve exists to prevent your boiler from turning into a bomb (not an exaggeration). If it’s releasing water or steam, your boiler pressure is too high. This can be caused by a failed expansion tank, a stuck valve, or other issues. Turn off your boiler and call for service. Overpressure situations are genuinely dangerous.

You smell gas or see yellow/orange flames in a gas boiler. Same rules as furnaces apply here. Gas smell equals leave the house and call the gas company. Yellow or orange flames instead of blue indicate incomplete combustion and carbon monoxide risk. Boilers produce enough heat to cause serious harm if they’re malfunctioning, and carbon monoxide can be fatal. Don’t take chances.

The boiler is making loud banging sounds and the whole house can hear it. Some banging in old radiator systems is just annoying (the classic “steam heat” soundtrack). But if your boiler itself is banging violently, shaking, or making sounds like it’s about to explode, something internal is wrong. This could be severe limescale buildup causing localized boiling (called kettling), or it could be a pressure issue. Either way, continued operation can crack the heat exchanger, which means replacing the entire boiler.

The boiler is making loud banging sounds and the whole house can hear it. Some banging in old radiator systems is just annoying (the classic “steam heat” soundtrack). But if your boiler itself is banging violently, shaking, or making sounds like it’s about to explode, something internal is wrong. This could be severe limescale buildup causing localized boiling (called kettling), or it could be a pressure issue. Either way, continued operation can crack the heat exchanger, which means replacing the entire boiler.

If you’ve been hearing that kettling noise for weeks or months and ignoring it because “it still works,” understand that every time you hear it, damage is happening inside your boiler. That sediment causing the noise is also causing microscopic cracks in your heat exchanger that will eventually become big cracks. The difference between catching this early (needs a thorough flushing and descaling) and catching it late (needs a new boiler) is thousands of dollars and whether you’re making that decision on your schedule or on the coldest night of February.

Mitsubishi Ductless Mini Split AC

The Sneaky Problems That Turn Into Big Bills (And How People Miss Them)

The frustrating thing about heating systems is that they rarely just die without warning. They give signs. They drop hints. They try to tell you something’s wrong. But most of us are busy, tired, and really hoping that weird noise will just go away on its own.

Dirty air filters are the silent system killers. This shows up on every list because it’s genuinely the most common problem and the easiest to prevent. A filter that costs four dollars, takes 30 seconds to replace, and gets ignored for six months can cause a $1,200 repair bill when it makes your system overheat and crack a heat exchanger or burn out a blower motor. The system has to work so much harder to pull air through a clogged filter that components wear out exponentially faster.

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Ignoring small leaks turns them into big floods. That tiny drip under your boiler? That little puddle that shows up and then evaporates? That’s not fixing itself. Leaks in heating systems get worse, not better. A small leak might just waste water and energy now, but it’s telling you a seal is failing, a valve is corroded, or a pipe is cracking. Left alone, you’ll eventually come home to a flooded basement, water-damaged floors, and an emergency repair bill that’s five times what a preventive fix would have cost.

Weird noises that “aren’t that bad yet” are your system begging for help. That high-pitched squeal from your furnace blower? It’s a belt or bearing that’s about to fail. That grinding from your heat pump? It’s a motor on its last legs. That banging from your boiler? It’s sediment buildup or a pressure problem that will eventually crack something expensive. The thing about mechanical failures is they’re progressive. That noise that’s tolerable today will be unbearable next week and will be silence (because the system died) the week after. Catching it early when it’s just a worn belt or a dirty component saves you from catching it late when it’s a burnt-out motor or destroyed compressor.

Thermostat problems disguise themselves as system problems. You’d be shocked how many people call for a repair, pay for a service visit, and find out their thermostat batteries died or their settings got changed. Modern programmable and smart thermostats are amazing until they’re not, and a thermostat that’s not communicating properly can make a perfectly good heating system seem broken. Before you panic about your heat not working, verify your thermostat is actually calling for heat, has power, is set correctly, and is reading the temperature accurately.

Nobody checks their outdoor units until something’s obviously wrong. Your outdoor heat pump or ductless compressor sits outside in the weather doing all the actual work of heating your home, and most people never look at it from November to March. Snow piles up around it. Leaves and debris get sucked into it. Ice builds up. And then people are surprised when it stops working efficiently. A quick monthly check (is it clear, is it level, is it making normal sounds, is there ice that won’t melt) takes two minutes and can catch problems before they become emergencies.

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Why a Simple Maintenance Visit Now Beats a $4,000 Emergency Call at 3 AM

Let’s talk about the actual math and reality of HVAC service calls, because there’s a huge difference between a planned maintenance visit and an emergency breakdown repair.

Maintenance happens on your schedule during business hours. You call on a Tuesday afternoon, you schedule for Thursday morning, a technician shows up when you’re ready, they do a thorough inspection, they catch small problems before they’re big problems, and they leave you with a system that’s cleaned, tuned, and ready to handle the rest of winter. You pay the standard service rate. You have time to plan if any repairs are needed. Nobody’s panicking.

Emergency calls happen at the worst possible times, and here’s what you need to know.

It’s 11 PM on a Sunday. It’s 3 AM on a Wednesday. It’s 6 AM on Thanksgiving. Your heat is completely dead, your house is getting colder by the hour, you have kids or elderly family or pets who need warmth, and you’re panicking.

Here’s the reality: most HVAC companies in the Philadelphia area don’t offer true 24-hour emergency service, and the ones that do charge emergency rates that are typically 1.5x to 3x normal service call fees. But there’s a smarter approach that can save you hundreds of dollars.

If your heat goes out overnight and it’s not a safety emergency, send a text message to your HVAC company. Many local Philadelphia contractors monitor text messages 24/7 even though they’re not dispatching trucks in the middle of the night. They’ll receive your message and can schedule you for first thing in the morning when their crews hit the road. You’ll pay normal service rates instead of emergency premiums, and honestly, the few hours you wait until morning will likely be about the same time you’d wait for an emergency tech anyway.

This approach is especially important for Philadelphia area homeowners who are budget-conscious. The reality is that your community isn’t looking to spend emergency rates if they can avoid it. If you can safely make it a few hours until morning (bundle up, use space heaters if you have them, close off unused rooms), you’re saving potentially hundreds of dollars. Emergency rates exist because you’re asking a technician to leave their family in the middle of the night, and that premium cost adds up fast.

The only time you need to call immediately for true emergency service is if there’s a safety situation: if you smell gas (that rotten egg smell), leave your house immediately and call the utility company and/or fire department. Same goes for visible flames, smoke, carbon monoxide alarms going off, or active flooding from your system. Those are genuine emergencies that need immediate attention from utility companies or emergency services, not situations where you wait.

For everything else (your heat stopped working but there’s no immediate danger), sending that text message and waiting for normal business hours means you get proper service at a fair price, and the technician who shows up is well-rested and can do thorough work instead of emergency triage at 3 AM.

What Actually Happens During a Professional Mid-Winter Heating Check

If you’ve never had a maintenance visit, you might be wondering what you’re actually paying for. Here’s what a legitimate HVAC company does during a heating system inspection:

For any heating system, they start with safety checks. This means testing carbon monoxide levels (for combustion systems), inspecting heat exchangers and combustion chambers for cracks or damage, verifying all safety switches and limit controls work properly, and checking venting systems to ensure combustion gases are leaving your house, not staying in it. These checks aren’t optional nice-to-haves. They’re life-safety items. Carbon monoxide kills people every winter.

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They clean components that affect performance and longevity. Burners get cleaned. Blower wheels get cleaned (they collect dust like you wouldn’t believe, which reduces airflow and efficiency). Condensate drains get flushed. Coils get inspected and cleaned if needed. Air filters get replaced. These aren’t cosmetic improvements. Dirt and debris make systems work harder, use more energy, and wear out faster.

They test the actual operation and performance of your system. This means measuring temperature rise (for furnaces) or temperature differential (for heat pumps) to verify your system is producing the amount of heat it’s supposed to. They check refrigerant pressures and temperatures (for heat pumps and ductless systems) to ensure proper charge. They test startup sequences, run cycles, and shutdown procedures. They verify your system is cycling appropriately, not running too long or too short.

They check electrical components and connections. Loose electrical connections cause arcing, which causes heat, which causes failures and fires. Technicians tighten connections, test capacitors (which help motors start and run), verify amperage draws on motors, and check control boards. Electrical problems are progressive. A connection that’s getting loose will eventually cause a failure, and catching it during maintenance prevents that.

They inspect mechanical components for wear. Belts get checked for cracks and proper tension. Motors get checked for noise and bearing wear. Fan blades get inspected for cracks or imbalance. Moving parts get lubricated where appropriate. Mechanical components wear out with use, and catching wear before failure is the entire point of maintenance.

For boilers specifically, they assess sediment and scale buildup. This is where maintenance on a well-kept system versus a neglected system diverges significantly. A boiler that’s been maintained annually will have minimal sediment and might just need a light flush or none at all. A boiler that hasn’t been serviced in five years will have sediment that’s hardened and caked throughout the heat exchanger and possibly throughout the entire system. Removing that requires time, specialized cleaning solutions, multiple flushes, and in severe cases, might require removing and manually cleaning components. This is why maintenance costs can vary significantly for boilers. The technician isn’t trying to upsell you when they say your system needs extensive cleaning. They’re telling you the truth about what’s required to actually maintain your system and prevent damage.

They provide you with real information about your system’s condition and any recommended repairs. A good technician will tell you what they found, what’s normal wear versus what’s a problem, what needs attention now versus what to watch, and what things will likely need attention in the next year or two. This gives you the chance to plan and budget instead of being blindsided by an emergency repair. For older boilers especially, they’ll give you an honest assessment of remaining lifespan and whether continued maintenance makes sense or whether you’re approaching replacement territory.

The whole process typically takes 45 minutes to 90 minutes depending on system type and complexity (longer for boilers that need extensive cleaning or for steam systems which are more complex), and you walk away knowing your system has been checked by someone who actually knows what they’re looking at. For systems like boilers and furnaces that involve combustion and carbon monoxide risks, that professional inspection is genuinely important for safety. For all systems, it’s the difference between hoping your heat keeps working and actually knowing it will.

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Trusted by Philadelphia’s Historic Churches and Houses of Worship

When you’re talking about boiler expertise in the Philadelphia area, there’s a reason R&R Mechanical gets called into churches throughout the region. Historic houses of worship, many with boiler systems that have been running since the early 1900s, require specialized knowledge that most HVAC companies simply don’t have. These aren’t your standard residential boilers. Church heating systems are often massive steam boilers or complex hot water systems that heat enormous buildings with high ceilings, multiple zones, and architectural considerations that don’t exist in typical homes.
Remember that old, busted while rusted boiler at the beginning of this page? We will be updating the picture here with the newly installed boiler soon.

The fact that churches trust R&R Mechanical with these critical systems (because when a church boiler goes down in January, it affects services, community programs, and sometimes emergency shelter operations) speaks volumes about the level of expertise and reliability you’re getting. If R&R can keep a century-old church boiler running reliably through Philadelphia winters, they can absolutely handle whatever’s heating your Chestnut Hill row home or Bensalem ranch. That kind of specialized boiler knowledge, especially with steam systems and older equipment that many newer technicians have never even seen, is rare. When you call R&R for boiler service, you’re getting technicians who work on some of the most challenging heating systems in the region, not just cookie-cutter residential installs.

Frequently Asked Questions

For most homes running their heat daily, every 30-60 days is the realistic answer. If you have pets, if anyone in your house has allergies or asthma, if you’re running your system constantly because of really cold weather, or if your home is particularly dusty, change it every 30 days. A good rule: set a reminder on your phone for the first of every month, check your filter, and if it looks gray or clogged, change it. Filters are cheap. The damage from not changing them is expensive.

Yes, actually. Heat pumps are designed to run longer cycles than furnaces because they move heat rather than generate it. During very cold weather (below 35-40 degrees), it’s normal for a heat pump to run pretty much continuously to maintain temperature. What’s not normal is running continuously while your house gets colder or never reaching your set temperature. If your heat pump runs all the time but keeps your house comfortable, that’s working as designed. If it runs all the time and you’re still cold, something’s wrong.

Please don’t. Pouring hot water on a frozen heat pump can crack components due to thermal shock, and the water will just refreeze anyway because you haven’t fixed the underlying problem. If your heat pump is frozen and won’t defrost on its own, turn it off and call for service. The freeze is a symptom of a problem (failed defrost control, low refrigerant, bad sensor), not the problem itself.

A dusty or burning smell when heat first kicks on is usually just dust burning off the heat exchanger or heating elements. It should go away after 20-30 minutes. If it persists, if it smells like burning plastic or rubber, if it smells like rotten eggs (gas), or if you see smoke, turn off your system and investigate. Persistent burning smells indicate something wrong, possibly a cracked heat exchanger, damaged wiring, or something in your ductwork that shouldn’t be there.

No. Heat pumps need to run in winter, so covering them blocks airflow and causes problems. Even air conditioners (which don’t run in winter) don’t need covers. They’re designed to handle weather. Covers can trap moisture, encourage rust, and create nice homes for rodents. Just keep the area around the unit clear of snow, leaves, and debris, and let it be.

Check your pressure gauge. If it’s reading below 12 PSI when the system is cold, you probably need to add water. Most residential boilers have a water feed valve you can open to add water until pressure reaches the proper range (usually 12-15 PSI cold). Add water slowly, and stop when you reach the right pressure. If you’re adding water frequently (like every few days or weekly), you have a leak somewhere and need professional service. Boilers shouldn’t need water added regularly in a closed system.

For forced air systems (furnaces, heat pumps), check the vents in that room to make sure they’re open and not blocked by furniture or drapes. Check if that room’s door is closed (closed doors restrict airflow). If vents are open and the room still isn’t heating, you might have a ductwork problem, a damper that’s closed, or a leak. For radiator or baseboard systems, that radiator might need bleeding (air trapped in it), might have a stuck valve, or might have debris blocking it.

If you’re someone who’ll actually forget to schedule maintenance (most people), yes. Service contracts typically include annual or bi-annual maintenance visits, priority scheduling, discounts on repairs, and sometimes free service calls. The maintenance visit alone usually costs almost as much as the annual plan, so if it gets you to actually maintain your system and gives you peace of mind, it’s worth it. If you’re disciplined about scheduling your own maintenance, you can skip the plan and just call for service when needed.

With proper maintenance, gas furnaces typically last 15-20 years, boilers can go 20-30 years, and heat pumps usually last 12-15 years. Without maintenance, expect those numbers to drop by 30-50%. Location matters (coastal salt air is harder on equipment), usage matters (a system that runs constantly in a big house works harder than one in a small condo), and installation quality matters (a system installed correctly lasts longer than one that wasn’t). If your system is approaching or past these ages and needs major repairs, replacement often makes more financial sense than repair.

You can and should handle basic maintenance: changing filters, keeping outdoor units clear, cleaning accessible areas, checking your thermostat, and keeping an eye on how things sound and perform. What you shouldn’t do is mess with refrigerant, open up sealed components, adjust gas valves or burners, work on electrical connections, or attempt repairs without knowledge. Professional maintenance once or twice a year plus homeowner upkeep in between is the ideal combination. You don’t need a professional to change a filter, but you do need one to properly inspect and service the complex components.

Boiler maintenance pricing starts around $120 for a system that’s been maintained regularly and just needs routine checks, cleaning, and testing. But if your boiler hasn’t been serviced in several years, the technician isn’t just doing routine maintenance. They’re dealing with years of sediment buildup that needs extensive flushing, components that have corroded and need replacement, and possibly damage that’s already occurred from neglect. Flushing out hardened sediment can take hours and might require multiple treatments. Corroded components need to be replaced. The work required is fundamentally different, so the cost is different. Think of it like going to the dentist: a routine cleaning costs one amount, but if you haven’t been in five years and need deep cleaning, cavity repairs, and other work, that’s a completely different visit and a completely different bill. The best way to keep boiler maintenance affordable is to do it consistently every year so the work never becomes extensive.